We started off the year with some rather dramatic wind speeds sweeping across the UK and London. For some cyclists, this meant brushing the dust off the Oyster card and braving the public transport system. Undoubtedly, as soon as the aggressive fare rises were noticed, promises were made to get back on the bike.

So with no option of public transport how do you cycle into headwind?

• Reduce your resistance: This is the time when bikes with drop handlebars come into their element. Get down low over the handlebars to reduce the amount of wind resistance your body creates. If your bike doesn’t have drop handlebars then you may be able to fit aero bars. Remember to keep your elbows in. For an extreme solution – get on a recumbent bike!
• Avoid loose fitting clothes: They’ll flap wildly in the wind and slow you down. Think lycra.
• Gear down: Cycling into headwind feels similar to riding uphill. With someone having a huge fan at full speed in front of your face. You should gear down just as you would when hill climbing. This will help prevent any knee problems.
• Slipstream: If you are riding with someone or near a fellow commuter there is the option of slipstreaming. This can improve your performance by around 30%. Of course some bike commuters don’t particularly want you slipstreaming them.
• Pack light: This is the right time to be very strict with what you’ve packed on your bike – aim to reduce it and you’ll feel the benefit more than ever when cycling into a headwind.

Did you brave cycling into the headwind? How did you find it? Any tips for fellow commuters?

The problem of cold feet can party be solved by getting a warm pair of winter cycling socks. Generally these are made of merino wool and are thicker than the socks you’ll wear the rest of the year. Picking yourself up three pairs should be enough to get you through the winter.

Winter cycling socks that are designed for cycling tend to command a higher price than perhaps can be justified. If you are on a budget therefore, a trip down to the local discount store could save you some money. The crucial word here is “could” as a lot of retailers have decent discounts on cycling socks bringing them well within the affordable range.

The best pair of winter cycling socks will keep your feet at a good temperature and not cause them to sweat. They’ll also be comfortable enough to wear on a long ride and dry quickly. If the shoes you wear for cycling are very tight then you may have an issue with the slightly thicker size of the socks.

The winter socks I’ve selected below should satisfy all the above criteria.

The Surface Clothing Crew Socks cost just £6.99 and provide excellent comfort and warmth. Whilst the designs may be a little too funky for some, at least they’ll be easy to spot in your sock draw when you are rushing to get ready for the commute into work.

The DHB Merino winter cycling socks offer a rare combination. They are both thin and warm. Along with that they are also very comfortable. For winter cycling this is a great pair of socks for £9.89.

If you really want to step up the war on cold feet then the Pearl Izumi Elite Tall Wool socks will appeal. They are longer than your usual sock providing extra warmth when it is needed. The insulation of merino wool keeps things nice and comfortably toasty. These winter cycling socks are a little expensive at £16.99.

The DeFeet Woolie Boolie 2 socks are an improvement in both warmth and comfort of their older siblings. They provide a good fit and will give you many years of good service.

Don’t be a afraid to give your feet a little pampering. As one of the main contact areas with the bike, it is important to keep them comfortable. If the socks don’t solve your problem then you should also look towards getting a pair of leg warmers as people have suggested in the comments below. Additionally, overshoes can add additional warmth as can getting cycling specific shoes.

See also: How to stay motivated to cycle when you look out the window and see this

In this post I’ll be talking a little about the different types of mudguards for bikes and giving a couple of recommendations.

Mountain bike mudguards

For much of my cycling career these are the mudguards I’ve relied upon. Whilst they are by no means the prettiest they generally do their job pretty well. They are also incredibly easy to fit.

You simply undo the Allen bolt on your seat post, slide on the rear mudguard and put everything back together again. The front mudguard is then positioned onto the down tube and attaches firmly in position. Once you’ve fitted mudguards once, the whole process takes less than 5 minutes.

A quick search on Wiggle will reveal plenty of great options with the Crud Urban Mudguard being a standard choice.

Road bike mudguards

Road bike mudguards fit closely to the front and rear wheel and provide excellent protection from water being lifted from the road. There can be some complications with fitting this style of mudguard for bikes because you may not have the necessary attachments on your frame. A quick inspection should reveal the necessary holes.

The other complication is that perhaps there isn’t enough clearance with the frame and the wheel to fit certain mudguards. Again, this will need to be checked.

Whilst you should aim to position these mudguards close to your wheel you should still have enough clearance to allow for any leaves and so forth that may get caught up in the wheels rotation.

In this category of mudguard I thoroughly recommend the SKS Bluemels Mudguards.

Alternatively, if you are lacking the proper attachments then the Crud RoadRacer is a great alternative. The first setup is a little bit of a pain but once that is out the way, you’ll never notice they are there.

Folding mudguards

An interesting alternative take on the mudguard concept is folding mudguards. The Full Windsor FoldnFix Rear Mudguards can be installed and removed from your bike rapidly.

See also: Setting up your bike for winter

Winter Mudguards

Mudguards not only prevent murky water from getting you soaked, they also prevent water from spraying into the face of whoever is unlucky enough to be riding behind you.

For mudguards you generally have two options. The first is the classic mountain bike mudguards you often see. They are cheap, easy to fit on almost any bike and they do the job.

There’s also mudguards that look similar to the ones in the picture above. They provide superior waterproofing but won’t fit all bicycle types. We’ve recommended the SKS Bluemels Mudguards previously and we stand by our recommendation.

If you don’t have the proper attachments on your frame then the intelligently designed Crud RoadRacer is a great alternative.

You can easily ride out the winter without mudguards but your bike won’t thank you for it. All that murky water that is flicked up from the road often contains mud and petrol residue. Not an ideal combination for your chain, derailleur and brakes.

Winter Tyres

If you are riding with thin tyres for speed (23mm or less) then you may wish to consider something a little wider (25mm and above). This will provide a smoother ride and better grip. Also, look for tyres with additional puncture protection. This will help you avoid standing by the side of the road repairing a puncture in the rain.

I’ve always relied on the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres which provide good grip during winter and very strong puncture protection. However, the newer Schwalbe Durano tyre is also very impressive. It provides more speed as well as many miles of good service. However, it lacks quite the same level of puncture resistance.

(See also: Tips for riding safely in the winter)

If we face a particularly bad winter this year then studded tyres may be a consideration. These perform far better in patches of ice and will keep you upright in bad conditions.

Bike lights

Here are four of the best bike lights that are essential for the winter bike setup.

Lubrication

During winter you need to step-up your cleaning and lubricating routine as it is washed away by rain and there’s more danger of rust. Remember to not go overboard as dirt will stick to the lube you apply and cause damage to your bike.

(See also: Which part of your bike should you lubricate)

Maintenance

This is not the time of the year to skimp on bicycle maintenance. Loose brakes could lead to a disaster. Grab our Bike Doctor app or head to the nearest bike shop and make sure your bike is ready to go.

See also:

• How to stay motivated to keep cycling when you look out your window and see this

It’s easy as we head into winter to lose motivation to cycle. Grey gloomy views make you think maybe I’ll just take the tube or bus today. However, as someone who’s given up on the bike only to come running back, I can tell you it’s worth sticking to it. Here’s some tips that work well for me and that should help you stay part of the cycling brotherhood and sisterhood.

Having the right gear

If water keeps splattering on your back, your feet are wet and your hands feel cold then it won’t be too long before you turn your back on cycling to work. Upgrading your kit shouldn’t be too painful an expense.

For the hands the Endura Strike Waterproof glove provides warmth and waterproofing. The cost is £27.95 which is nearly the same price as a week long TfL Travelcard. The Endura Strike comes in both male and female styles.

Keeping your feet dry is a little more of a challenge. DIY solutions such as a plastic bag over your socks work surprisingly well but a pair of Seal Skinz socks should also be considered, especially at the current clearance price of £17.38. If wet feet remain a persistent problem, then a pair of winter cycling shoes or overshoes should put the problem to rest for good.

Keeping the rest of your body dry and warm is a matter of grabbing a good waterproof cycling jacket and a pair of waterproof trousers. The DHB minima cycling jacket and waterproof trousers are exceptional value for money and will pack down nicely in your bag. Alternatively, you may already cycle with waterproof shorts. It’s a matter of personal preference. 

How to get organised for winter cycling

Winter cycling may mean a couple of tweaks to your normal cycling routine. Whereas previously you may have got away with cycling in the same kit you wear all day, in the winter you need to be ready for the changing weather. Otherwise, you’ll end up arriving at work too sweaty or soaking wet. The best way to tackle this is to have a couple of layers ready. As your body temperature rises, you can lose a layer.

A change into dry clothes is another essential part of getting organised for winter. Getting these clothes into work without them getting soaked is possible using waterproof panniers, a waterproof bag or buying a waterproof cover for your bag. The Hump Cover is a popular option as it has plenty of reflective material.

Using the stats

Keeping an eye on your cycling computer is another way to stay motivated. Stats such as distance cycled and calories burnt keep the motivation high and mean you can avoid feeling bad when tucking into those hearty Christmas meals.

Consider the alternative

If all else fails then there’s nothing like a quick stint on public transport to get you back on your bike. Not only is it expensive but it’s also often overcrowded and slow. Give me the bike any day!

See also:

• Waterproof cycling trousers
• How’s your winter cycling coming along?
• Solution to watery eyes during winter cycling
• Tips to keep you cycling safely this winter

Four of the best front bike lights

• Saving money: Cateye HL-EL 130 (front and rear set for £19.11) – a set of lights that get the job done, don’t cost too much and will last for years. I had the same set of Cateye lights for around 5 years and only eventually changed them because I wanted to try the Knog lights.
• Don’t want to have to buy new batteries: Blackburn Flea (£21.99) – USB chargeable, tiny and gives plenty of light for its size. Quick mounting strap means can be moved to whichever one of your bikes you are using. My current front light of choice. 
• Spending money: Hope vision 1 (£79.99) – this bright light won’t leave you in the dark. At full power it pumps out 240 lumens. The light also comes with a helmet mount.
• Looking for something different: Knog Boomer (£25.49) – said to be slightly brighter than the Flea the rechargeable boomer relies upon Knog’s textbook silicon cover to attach to the bike. Some people love Knog lights others hate them!

Four of the best rear bike lights

• Saving money: Cateye HL-EL 130 set (£19.11)
• Don’t want to have to buy new batteries: Blackburn Flea (£21.99)
• Spending money: Exposure Flare (£35.99) – with its pulsating beam and continuous glow modes this light is perfect for attracting attention. The twisting motion switch also makes it less likely the light will turn on whilst in your bag.
• Looking for something different: Fibre Flare (£26.99) – aiming to provide 360 degree visibility, the Fibre Flare lights are a good innovation in bike lights and have had plenty of positive reviews.

Wow, far out man! Gnarly!

Nicole has previously talked about a couple of other cool ideas for staying visible so I thought I’d give them a quick mention and add one more into the equation.

• Reflective Spokes (£7.99) – these spoke add-ons attach to your existing spokes and provide good side reflection.
• Bike glow ($25) – the easiest way to describe these lights is by imagining you are decorating your bike to look like a Christmas tree.

See also:

• Definitive guide to bike lights
• What bike lights do London Cyclist readers use
• Roundup of rear bike lights
• Nicole’s night time setup

As you all know, I’m not a fan of wearing high visibility clothing and I prefer to let my bike do the talking in that sense.   I do have a set of reflective arm and leg bands which I wear and my Bspoke jacket has a reflective belt.  I don’t mind reflective, it’s neon and flouro I can’t be doing with.  I don’t want to look like I’m doing something hazardous, when I’m trying to convince people that cycling is safe and fun.  I know that a lot of readers don’t share my views but let’s agree to disagree.

My commute takes place on roads that are well lit with street lights and are busy with other road users.  I don’t really ride on roads where I need to see, but rather I need other traffic to see me.  To my mind, there’s nothing more ineffectual than a cyclist all neon-ed up with a single blinky light on the bike the size of a 5p.   My other feeling is that, as a car-driver myself, I’m looking for hazzards at the point of impact with my car and that would be at bumper level.  When I’m driving I’m looking out for the constant beam of light from another vehicle and not the blinky strobe light favoured by so many cyclists.  If we want to be seen why don’t we all adopt the same strategy as our car-driving nemeses and use the same warning system and keep the light constant?  I just don’t get it.  But I’m sure you’ll enlighten me….in droves!

So, if I’m not going to wear neon,  I need to keep my bike lit up as much as possible, which means three or four rear lights, two or three front lights, all on constant, plus I have tyres with reflective side walls and reflective spokes covers.  I have a Hump backpack cover which I use to cover whichever bag I put on the rear rack.

At the moment, I have a variety of lights that I’m putting through their paces. I have about four different sorts of Knog lights, the old-style Frogs, the Gekko, Boomer and Skink and I have a Cat-Eye front and rear light set that I bought about 17 years ago.  The rear Cateye light is amazing.  I use it everyday and to my knowledge I’ve only had to change the battery once.  I don’t know how that can be but it just is.  I use it on constant mode as well, not flashing….in contrast it’s sister light the front one works for about 20 minutes before I have to put new batteries in.  The beam of this light is good for those rare times when I need to see the road ahead rather than just being seen myself which means that I only use it for short periods on certain journeys otherwise I’d be singlehandedly keeping Duracell afloat.  The Knogs Gekko and Boomer are my go-to lights for the front although I have to echo the thoughts of other users and say that sometimes they turn themselves on in my bag and the Boomer has a mind of it’s own.  Whenever I go over a bump in the road it turns itself on to strobe mode which is bloody annoying.

USB Rechargeable Boomers

I now have a set of USB rechargeable Boomers, both front and rear, and I have to say that they’re the best lights I’ve had so far.  The beam is very powerful and there’s no way you’d miss that.  It was too bright for a picture to develop.  I’ve only recharged it once and it’s still going strong.  The advantage of these lights is that you just pop them into the port at work and you’re ready to roll again in the evening.  No hassle at all.  I was out with my children last week and I gave one to my daughter to use.  I was cycling behind her and I couldn’t look at it, it was so bright. The front one is equally bright and unlike it’s battery operated cousin, it doesn’t have a mind of it’s own and the beam stays put on which ever mode it’s on.

For the rear, I have the USB Boomer on my pannier, the Cateye and a reflector fixed to my rear rack and a pair of Skinks attached to each of my rear seat stays.  Because I carry my bag on the rack, I can’t use the seat post for a light. I have a front and rear Frog that I carry when I need a little extra backup too.

I have to say that unlike other Knog users I haven’t found that they move around much and I haven’t lost one yet so I’m a real fan.  But I do have to take them all off my bike when I leave it at the railway station which creates a bit of extra weight to carry around, along with the Hump but I like them for the flexibility.  I have three bikes that I use all the time and I couldn’t be doing with permanent fixtures that go with a lot of other light brands.

Reflective spokes – Remembering side visibility

I chose Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres for my main commuter bike and the Marathon’s for my drop-handled Mixte because I’d read that they were both great puncture resistant tyres but primarily because they have a reflective strip on the side-wall which provides visibility from the side, which we tend to forget about.  The Marathon Plus rides a bit heavier than the regular Marathon, but then I’m not in a race and I don’t mind a bit of drag.  It’s character building.  A few weeks ago I was in Halfords (buying bike racks, more of which soon) and I saw some reflective covers for the spokes.  They cost about £8 for a pack of 36 so I put one on every other spoke on both wheels and I think that that about covers it.  There are a few things around that attach to the spokes to provide extra visibility from the side, like Hokey Spokes but these are the cheapest and I think they’re quite effective.

So that’s my night-time set up.  What do you do?

Don’t forget that our rides begin this Saturday 5 March at 11.30am.  Details here and here.

Want to know one of the most searched for items this time of the year? Winter cycling gloves. If you manage to wake up from your huge Turkey Christmas dinner induced coma and look out the window you’ll understand why. On my hunt for winter cycling glove nirvana, that magical moment when your hands are warm but not sweaty, I’ve tested a number of gloves. I wanted to share my results with you here. Your hands will thank me for it..

Before I begin to discuss the subject of gloves, may I just say that in reviewing anything for London Cyclist, it’s either something I already own, something I’ve just bought to try out or something that I’ve asked a manufacturer or supplier to give me to test.  I don’t review unsolicited stuff  and I don’t have any affiliation to any company.  If I like it I say so, if not, I say so too, so that my review remains independent.

I’ve almost lost count of the number of gloves I own.  It seems that I need a pair for every situation, sport or circumstance.   My priority is to have toasty warm hands at almost all cost, in something windproof.  I ride downhill in the mornings so I go quite fast and need that windproof factor.

The best pair of lightweight cycling gloves

In the summer I bought the best pair of lightweight cycling gloves ever, by Cinelli. They were quite pricy, about £30 I think, which is a lot for a pair of fingerless gloves but they are a dream to ride with.  I can reach the levers without feeling constricted by the glove, they are long enough to pull down over my wrist and they look great.  When you find something this good, you try to replicate the feeling in everything else and unless you’re very lucky, it doesn’t happen very often.

The winter arrives

When the weather started to turn a little colder and there was a chill in the morning air, I started wearing a pair of nylon running gloves,  fine in the crisp morning air and I didn’t really need them on the way home.   Colder still, I started to wear a pair of Gore Lady Countdown gloves that I bought in the sale last year.  They were fine for a short ride in the cold but on a long fast ride let me down a bit.   They are waterproof and windproof but still not -4 proof.  The soft-shell fabric is good but just not warm enough.

I have some fantastic skiing gloves by Spyder but they’re really only useful for spring skiing and I still haven’t found anything that matches their performance for skiing in the depths of winter.  I was using them to cycle in but at the moment, they’re not warm enough because my fingers are stretched to the ends inside.   That’s the thing with any old glove.  They just don’t have the reach that’s needed to ride with thumbs and index finger round the bars, and the other fingers on the brakes, which is how I ride.  Does anyone else do this?  It’s a habit I picked up from an MTB skills session and it gives me a little bit more control, especially in the weather.  Anyway, I digress.

Beating the extreme temperatures

I think I’m near Nirvana but it has been a long, and I’m sad to say, fairly expensive haul.   There’s nothing worse having fingers or toes that one can’t actually feel.  It’s that fiddling about when I get to the railway station to lock up the bike that does it, or at the other endof the day, unlocking and putting lights on.  If my hands get cold in those few minutes, in these sub-zero temperatures, then they just don’t get warm again. So, on to the next.

Last week I ordered a pair of Himalayan down-filled mittens from The North Face (Google Shopping Link).  They were expensive, are ridiculously big but very, very warm.  I rode home last Thursday in a snow storm and a ferocious headwind and my fingers were fine.  They have Gore windstopper fabric on the outside with leather palms for grip.  I have fleece liners from some old skiing gloves which fit inside perfectly.  The mitts are roomy enough for that all-important pocket of air.  When I need to take them off, the liners have grippy stuff on the palms (I’m sure there’s a technical name for that) so that I can do what I need to do, stay relatively warm and the put the mitts back on again when I’m done.

I have to say that the Himalayan mitts are extremely large, but then we’re dealing with extreme conditions here and I want to keep on riding.  I can just about change gear in them and use my normal grip but they wouldn’t work (I don’t think) for a long ride on drops.

So it seems that the mittens + liner is working for me in these temperatures and when the weather starts to warm up a bit, I’ll be back to the Spyder gloves, then the Gore gloves and then just the fleece liner or the nylon running gloves.

For the Wilier, when I need to ride with my fingers on the levers, I’ll have to stick with the Gore Countdown gloves.  That’s not so much of a problem  at the moment because I’m not taking that bike out.  8kgs of bike and snow and ice is not a good combination, for me anyway.  I have heard good things about the Gore lobster gloves, but I haven’t tried them myself.

A quick tip:  One can get similar gloves to my fleece liners, with grips on the palms, from any good saddlery.  They keep the chill off in the spring and autumn but give some grip on the bars, and they fit under bigger gloves.  They are no more than £5.  Sealskinz, which I know a lot of you like, do a windproof hunting glove with grippy, nobbly bits on the palm for around £30.  Hunting gloves have the closest affinity with cycling gloves because they are made with extra reach between the index finger and thumb, where we need it most.  And for all of the iPhone owners out there they have a flip-over index finger, for trigger (screen) access.

So there it is.  A round-up of winter gloves chez moi.  Next week: Winter legwear.

Post by Nicole. Make sure you checkout her introduction to London Cyclist.

See also:

• Winter cycling gloves (Andreas’ take)
• Waterproof cycling jackets
• Puncture proof tyres

Due to the treacherous nature of snow, it can be difficult for the non-fair-weather cyclist to keep up. But there is always a way.

For me, the more dangerous it is to cycle, the merrier I am. Living in London for nearly 7 years now and cycling for 6 of those years, I was thrilled when the first proper snow swarmed us in February 2009. And as a curious person, I was tempted when a few concerned friends called and sent text to warn me from cycling in the snow. Really?

So I hopped on my bike into the thick of it and discovered a whole new world of cycling. I know what you’re thinking now… but lets share some of the experience;

(See also: tips to keep you cycling safely this winter)

First thing to do before cycling in the snow is to remember that, as before snow, you are no different from a vehicle. So you must retain that thinking of using the road like every other road user; respect and safety first. And to begin with, the following steps may help prepare you;

• Check your breaks are working and tyres are inflated
• Wear suitable clothing and cycling gloves
• Be sure that your bells are working (some bells don’t work when wet; check this, you’ll need it).
• Mud guard
• Slick tyres often cope less well with the snow. Bear this in mind.

Now you are ready to go. However, the danger is in what lies on the ground. For fresh snow – meaning the first snowfalls that are still foamy (or crunchy), – it is quite easy to plough through. However, if it has been at least 6 hours or has been trampled on, it poses more danger. So the trouble is; the longer it has been snowing, the more treacherous it can be. This is because as the hours and days go and the snow is marched on, ice forms beneath it and this could be tricky to steer on.

(See also: winter cycling gloves)

To successfully cycle in the snow therefore, try the following;

1. Have a good grip on your handle with both hands; in some instance, the snow could make your bicycle move out of track, maintain and agree with the snow by gradually steering to remain on your track.
2. Do not speed, go at the easiest speed and maintain the momentum; don’t build it up; this means you reduced the rapidity of your fall and can get a grip quickly if falling.
3. Use the lowest gears; doing this means you don’t put a lot of pressure on the tyres which can cause it to spin and make you lose traction.
4. Maintain a straight line
5. Do not do sharp turns into corners
6. Watch out for oncoming vehicles; although you are like every other road user(as said above), if the road is very slippery, chances are that a driver may lose control or the car may just slip. So if you see oncoming vehicles on a very slippery iced road, best reaction could be to stop. Depending on the span of the road, and the behaviour of the car, you may have to get off the road entirely to avoid being run (slipped) into.
7. Do not cycle on the pavement; the pavement is just wide enough and because you may be skidding [from side to side], it may be too hazardous as the space would not be enough to save yourself should you slip.
8. At bends or corners, you may not need to give signs if you have been cycling very slowly’ Vehicles behind you would also have been moving slow [only if you have been part of the road user and maintained that position]. Just maintain the right place on the road so drivers understand where you are going.

Additional suggestions: don’t forget to have strong and sharp front and rear bike lights on if you are cycling in the night. High visibility clothing would be an essential too. Personally I’m also making sure I always have my helmet on too.

See also:

• Winter cycling gloves
• Bike lights guide
• Where do you wait at the traffic lights?
• Cycling trousers to keep legs dry and warm
• Tips to keep you cycling safely this winter

Image via Flickr

When I got home I decided enough was enough and I was going to look around for a pair of waterproof cycling trousers. I reasoned I could shove them in my bag on a day when it looks like it was going to rain and pull them out in bad conditions to throw over my trousers.

Here are some of the well recommended waterproof cycling trousers I came across in-case you’ve ever found yourself in a similar situation..

Altura Nightvision Overtrousers

Providing waterproofing the Altura Nightvision waterproof cycling trousers are a good pair of overtrousers to have in case of rain. One of the best parts of the design is the zipped lower leg that allows you to slip in and out of them easily without taking off your shoes. The cycling specific design means that even as your leg is bending during pedalling they still remain comfortable. The Velcro at the bottom means that you can tighten them and keep them out of the cranks. Finally the reflective strips help you be seen.

£38.99 Wiggle or £59.99 from Evans Cycles

dhb Wickham eVENT cycling overtrousers

The Wickham waterproof cycling trousers provide more breathability than the Altura Overtrousers. Hence the steep jump in price due to the more expensive materials used. Apart from that they offer much the same benefit as the Altura cycling trousers.

£62.99 Wiggle

Any waterproof trousers

Taking a quick look on Amazon.co.uk or any outdoor shop you’ll definitely find cheaper alternatives than cycling specific waterproof trousers. Unfortunately you do miss out on some of the benefits but if you’re only going to use them rarely then it may be worth saving some money.

Take a look here at the Amazon.co.uk waterproof trousers.

See also:

• Waterproof cycling jackets
• Winter cycling gear
• Winter cycling gloves