We started off the year with some rather dramatic wind speeds sweeping across the UK and London. For some cyclists, this meant brushing the dust off the Oyster card and braving the public transport system. Undoubtedly, as soon as the aggressive fare rises were noticed, promises were made to get back on the bike.

So with no option of public transport how do you cycle into headwind?

• Reduce your resistance: This is the time when bikes with drop handlebars come into their element. Get down low over the handlebars to reduce the amount of wind resistance your body creates. If your bike doesn’t have drop handlebars then you may be able to fit aero bars. Remember to keep your elbows in. For an extreme solution – get on a recumbent bike!
• Avoid loose fitting clothes: They’ll flap wildly in the wind and slow you down. Think lycra.
• Gear down: Cycling into headwind feels similar to riding uphill. With someone having a huge fan at full speed in front of your face. You should gear down just as you would when hill climbing. This will help prevent any knee problems.
• Slipstream: If you are riding with someone or near a fellow commuter there is the option of slipstreaming. This can improve your performance by around 30%. Of course some bike commuters don’t particularly want you slipstreaming them.
• Pack light: This is the right time to be very strict with what you’ve packed on your bike – aim to reduce it and you’ll feel the benefit more than ever when cycling into a headwind.

Did you brave cycling into the headwind? How did you find it? Any tips for fellow commuters?

“One knee says to another knee..”

I mentioned yesterday on Twitter that I’ve been having some knee pain recently. A little during cycling and then occasionally when I’m resting.

I got some really helpful suggestions back:

• aj_ux I forgot to tweet "also try an ibuprofen gel".
• petermeanwell I raised my seat as wasn’t getting full leg extension, plus adjust my toeclips towards the outside of the pedals, and it went
• phips73 Saddle too high? Do you rock side to side when you ride?
• AidanFarrow get rid of your old shoes (i’m talking ordinary shoes, not cycling shoes), replacing badly worn soles worked wonders for me.
• Roaders more seriously, I assume you have checked SPD setup and have knees covered below 10°C?
• bashthebox Try adjusting saddle position – that did it for me. Or your cleat position – helped a friend. Rest until the pain is gone.
• AndyKewell read this http://tinyurl.com/ydfw5mf and get some Arnica gel.
• cyclelizzy try a knee support. Found it helped me last year. All fine now.
• ecstaticgaucho Do stretches and have a bit of a rest… possibly see a physio..
• Anne24solo (puts physio head on). Suggest you dont ride through the pain. Get you and the bike looked at.
• tobycastle What sort of pain? Sharp stabby or dull ache? RICE best course of action. Rest Ice Compression Elevation.
• cyclegaz do you stretch after you ride? I have problems with my knee if I don’t stretch
• arthurpanos I had the same thing mate. rode through it but braced up my knee. all good now. good luck!
• presentedbynt have a good rest matey – you can always enjoy cycling after the rest! good osteopath can help you too good luck
• cgwlambert Rest, don’t ruin the chance to get out in the upcoming good weather. Riding will only make it worse… temp – 10C on Saturday
• nodgerjeffries @aj_ux also use single speed..but pain gone, put it down to cold xmas weather, ok since. Web full of cyclist bad knee probs
• Roaders use the other leg?
• ruthbowes select a gear or two lower than you normally would for a few days – it’s slower but also less strain on your knee. Helped me.
• nodgerjeffries Happened to me, knee prob common for cyclists, gave bike a rest and it went away. Put it down to cold – now wear trousers.
• dbfhorses 2 weeks rest and adjust the geometry of your riding position.

It was great to have everyone chime in with ideas. I’m going to put it down to two reasons: The cold and some trekking I did recently when we were on very rocky terrain.

As for the solution I think a rest is the best option. I’m going to keep cycling to a minimum and when I do go out only for very short runs and without putting too much pressure. If things persist I’ll talk to the doc and think about my bike fitting.

Never nice to realise you are fragile! Also I was recommended this article on Knee pain.

Anything I’m missing?

Image via mikebaird twitter

With the change of conditions on the road you do need to change your riding style a little. Here’s some expert tips that can help you avoid those near misses.

Tip 1: Road position

In the winter more than ever you should be taking a dominant road position. Not only is a drivers vision less good due to reduced daylight and bad weather but also there are longer stopping distances. I.e. Danger that can be avoided.

Therefore, whenever you find yourself cycling in the gutter think to yourself: “Why shouldn’t I claim the road! I’m going to make things safer for everyone”. Get into the middle of the lane and force cars to see you.

Tip 2: Keep your eyes 14

This is a Greek saying for keep your eyes peeled. When winter cycling you need to be anticipating road users actions more than ever. Has that taxi seen you? Is that bus about to stop without indicating? As someone once humorously suggested to me: “Treat all other road users as suicidal maniacs”.

Tip 3: Be visible

Bike lights. I’m going to leave it there.

Tip 4: Check your bike

Use Bike Doctor or take it to a Bike Shop. However you choose to maintain your bike winter is a good time to be on top of it. The brakes are one of the most important things. Make sure they are responsive. If when you pull down the lever slightly your bike isn’t coming to a stop quickly then have someone take a look at it. You should also check your tyres more regularly and if possible clean the bike a little more often to prevent rust from the salt on the road.

Tip 5: The winter hazards

Leafy roads, potholes filled with water and icy patches. These are the winter cycling hazards that you need to avoid. This may mean cycling a little more slowly and leaving more space between you and the next nearest road user. Remember the stopping distances are increased due to water between the brake blocks and the bicycle rims.

Also related:

• Winter cycling gear
• The 7 mistakes you are making with your cycling
• Bike lights
• Winter cycling gloves

Image via Amsterdamize flickr

Know your enemy

When I took the wrong turn I had no idea how big the hill was. My initial thinking was:

Andreas to brain: Oh no! A hill, I swear this isn’t the right way, what shall I do?

Brain: Pedal hard and it will soon be over and you can get home and put your feet up and watch TV

Andreas to brain: Thanks brain!

This was an error because the hill went on for a while so putting in hard pedalling at the start meant that I would be out of juice by the time I reached the top. It definitely helps when you know how long the hill goes on for so you can pace yourself.

Steady your approach

If you are going flat out before you get to a big hill then you’re going to struggle unless you are some kind of cycling superhero. It’s best to pace yourself so you are conserving energy for the challenging hill. Note: This doesn’t mean stop, have a cup of coffee at Starbucks and then tackle the hill. That would be pacing yourself way too slow!

Seating 90% standing 10%

When cycling uphill I tend to stand only when I need that bit of an extra boost. The cycling experts will tell you that standing on a bike uses more energy as you are carrying your body weight.

Use gears to your advantage

When I feel the resistance building I know it’s time to switch down a gear. I always switch down gears incrementally, not 5 at a time! I also try to time my gear changes so that I’m not doing them when I’ve pretty much grounded to a halt because we all know how tough that can be.

Head down and pray

Well, it isn’t quite that bad! During the uphill climb consistency is king. I try to keep my pace steady and not too slow or too fast. It’s tough to know what the perfect pace is and what gear you should be in. This is something you only get good at with practise (I rarely practise so it is definitely something I would like to be better at).

Relax

I also try not to tense my upper body too much as this wastes energy. This includes keeping a fairly loose grip on the handlebars.

I think that sums up my strategy, the main thing I need to do is to practise more uphill cycling to get better at it. What do you guys tend to do? Get your head down and power it or avoid hills like the plague?

See also:

• What is your traffic light strategy?
• Kryptonite New York 3000 – a lock to keep your prized possession safe
• Cycling from Birmingham to London

I wanted to share my traffic light strategy with you guys and hear more about what you do when confronted by the dreaded red light.

Red light battle plan

My red traffic light strategy puts great military strategists like Napoleon Bonaparte to shame. In fact if it was me versus Lance Armstrong on a busy central London road riddled with traffic lights then it is these tactics that would make all the difference. Without further ado here is my top secret, well refined, red light strategy:

Plan A: Approach as slow as a turtle and attack as fast as a tiger

If you see a red light up ahead then try and time your arrival at the light just as it turns green. This means you don’t grind to a complete halt and keep some of the forward momentum.

Plan B: “Some rules can be bent, others can be broken” Matrix

Is London Cyclist going to suggest jumping red lights? Me, never, ever! I don’t make a habit of jumping red lights but what I do tend to do is stop in front of the light. This is usually because there is no advanced stop lines or if there is a car is helpfully parked in it. I only do this if there is another traffic light across the road I can look at to see when it turns green. 

This gives you a couple of valuable seconds clearance on other road users.

Plan C: Yoda say: Bike gears, you must use

If I know I will have to come to a stop because it is a long light then I tend to flick down a gear before stopping to give myself a bit of a quicker and easier start.

Plan D: Timing is everything

After riding a certain route a few times you get to know the timings of the lights. For example on my old route back from work I knew that if I’m caught by a certain light I’ll be caught by the next two. So I always put in a bit of rapid pedalling.

Plan E: Use disguises to your advantage

So you’re at a light that helps pedestrians cross the road. Jump off the bike and what are you? You are a pedestrian. Wheel the bike across and hop back on. No harm done and you’re on your way home.

Plan F: Orange means go

If I know I can make it through a light while it is still on orange I go for it.

Plan G: Wiggle your way to the front

I always weave my way to the front of traffic so that when the light turns green I’m there waiting for it. This requires good, careful cycling so as not to knock off any mirrors or hit any fellow cyclists. Often I find a gap on the other side of the road (again only if it is safe to do so).

Your strategies?

Which of these tactics do you tend to use? Do you have any of your own you would share? Have you mastered the art of track standing?

Image by: Stringberd

Rule #1

Realise you are in power

In turbulent times when people are saving money, every sale is important to a shop. Therefore, this puts you the consumer in a good position. If they can’t lower the price, you will take your money elsewhere.

Rule #2

Do your research and decide your target

Go into the shop and get help from the assistant on which bike would be suitable for you. Don’t part with your cash yet. First, compare the prices of your chosen bike online and in other shops. Next, you need to set your target. This should usually be around 10-20% less than the marked price. However, start the negotiations at around 30-40% less.

Rule #3

Never be too enthusiastic

Don’t walk into the bike shop and be over enthusiastic. This conveys to the shop assistant that you love the bike so much that you would pay any price for it. If you are buying the bike second hand then pick out a few faults with it to lower its value.

Rule #4

Be prepared for their excuses

“Oh sorry sir we have a policy of not lowering our prices”. This is a classic line I have heard before. If they are smart they will realise that not lowering their prices will mean you will take your custom elsewhere. If they give this excuse then make sure you politely say “Okay, not a problem. Who can I speak to that will help me buy this bike today?”. Make sure you get to speak to the person in control.

Rule #5

Make them invest their time into the deal

The longer they put into the deal the more committed they will be to getting a sale. A good negotiator knows this and will ask lots of questions to keep them involved.

Rule #6

Awkward silences are your best friend

I don’t know a lot of people that like awkward silences but in negotiating they are your best friend. If they say: “Really sorry sir I don’t think I can lower the price”. Don’t rush to reply, let them sweat. It is likely in the silence they will concede and lower their price.

Rule #7

What else can they throw in?

They may decide they don’t wish to lower their price. No problem, what else can they do to sweeten the deal? Nice pair of lights? An extended warranty? A new bicycle jacket? Some vouchers? Offer them alternatives. The important part to this is how you phrase it. Don’t ask them any questions they can say no to. If you say “Is there nothing else you can do?” they can easily say no. Instead if you ask “what else can you do to sweeten the deal?” They will start to think of alternatives.

Rule #8

Be prepared to walk away

My most successful negotiations have come from taking a few steps back as if to walk away. This will usually trigger a better offer. If they still do not budge on price know when  to leave. Don’t fall into the trap of “oh well, I have been here for ages, it would be a shame to leave without a bike” (Rule 5!). If you still feel strongly about it a week later, the bike will still be there.

Rule #9

Don’t make it personal

Another tip is to say you are buying for someone else. This detaches you emotionally from the deal. “I’m buying this as a gift for one of our clients and my boss has only given me so much to spend. I know he will love it. What can you do for me?”. This stops it being between you and the salesman.

Rule #10

Most importantly: enjoy!

Negotiating does not have to be all serious. In fact some joking around and laughter can often get the shop assistant on your side.

Some people worry about negotiating. I find it enjoyable. The more I practise, the better I get and by following these simple rules I ensure that I get a good deal. If you wish to read more about negotiating I recommend the all time classic book: getting to yes. Remember, the real price of an item is the price you pay. Not the price advertised. Happy negotiating!

Image courtesy of Andrew Nicholas

Well, the terrible weather continues in London and cycling back today I bumped into a taxi who was less than happy. I also saw a couple of people have some minor crashes so here are my recommendations in the rainy weather:

• Slow down – stopping times are greater so there is no need to be showing off to all the weirdos in suits (otherwise known as people who don’t cycle)
• Don’t go through big puddles – if you get your breaks wet they won’t stop
• Test your breaks regularly – you don’t want to be travelling at speed to realise your breaks aren’t working
• Be extra careful with pedestrians – with the umbrella raised they don’t tend to check what’s going on. What do they think it magically protects them or something?
• Watch out for potholes – potholes are much harder to spot as they are filled with water.

If you have any good tips of what to do in the horrible weather post them in the comments!

Flickr Image Originally uploaded by kattebelletje