Lifeline Professional Bicycle Toolkit

£89.99 | Available from Wiggle

When I was looking for a professional toolkit without an extreme price attached to it I knew I could rely on Lifeline. At just £89.99 this is a bargain price in comparison to other offerings. The quality of the tools suffers a little however, this shouldn’t be noticeable for most tasks and if you are only maintaining a fleet of a couple of bikes you’ll be fine. The ball-end Allen keys are an excellent inclusion to this 38 piece kit. A well thought out bicycle toolkit that will suit most casual bike mechanics.

Park Tool AK37 Advanced Mechanic Toolkit

£239.99 | Best price from Chain Reaction Cycles

Park Tool has always been known for its good quality and as a favourite choice of professional mechanics. The AK37, as you may have guessed, includes 37 tools. The bicycle toolkit is suitable for most common maintenance tasks. If you’ve got the money to spend then the extra investment is likely to mean these tools will last many lifetimes.

Pedro’s Master Tool Kit 3.0

£899.99 | Distributed by 2pure

If you are taking the first serious steps to transform yourself into a professional bike mechanic then the Pedro’s Master Tool Kit is the way to go about it. 64 very high quality tools are included but the price is enough to make you weep.

See also:

• Portable bike stands
• Bicycle maintenance: DIY or get someone else to do it for you?
• Repair your bike using your iPhone or Android
• Bicycle maintenance courses in London

Suspension on a mountain bike reduces rider fatigue and improves the bike wheels contact on rough terrain. When adjusting, your aim is to balance between a soft and a hard setup. Too soft will result in your bike wheels not travelling far enough in a dip and too hard will cause your bike to bounce off rough terrain.

The sag determines the amount that the mountain bike suspension compresses.

I’ve demonstrated the repair on a Voodoo Canzo bike which is a pretty high spec mountain bike.

Step 1: Measuring sag

If your bike doesn’t come with an O-ring, as the Voodoo Canzo does, then simply secure a zip tie around the leg. Then, slide it down the fork leg until it reaches the fork wiper seal.

Step 2: Sit on the bike

Next, you’ll need to get a friend to hold you in position or alternatively prop yourself up against a wall using your elbow.

Sit down on the bike in the normal riding position and be careful not to compress the fork too much as you get on. If you do then simply take your weight off the bike and reset the O-ring or zip tie.

Step 3: Aiming for 20-25%

Then, climb off the bike, whilst being cautious not to compress the fork further.

Measure the sag from the fork leg. You need to be aiming for 20% to 25% of the total travel available. The total travel available can be found in the bicycle’s handbook or, if you’ve lost that, then by looking it up online.

The Canzo features the Rockshox Ario R by Sram. This has 140mm of travel. The manufacturer recommends, 15-25% of travel is 28mm (20%).

Note that the 20% to 25% is a general recommendation that works for most. However, you may find yourself adjusting this depending on your riding style.

Step 4: Increasing or decreasing pressure

If your bike has air sprung forks then you decrease the air pressure to increase the sag. Alternatively, increase the air pressure by pumping more air into the fork to reduce the amount of sag.

Depending on your measurement, either increase or decrease the sag, remembering to aim for around 20% to 25% sag. You should make incremental changes and check them by re-setting the O-ring and climbing back on the bike.

Your mountain bike may use a coil-sprung system instead. In this case, adjustments are made using the dial on the fork crown that controls the spring. This has a limited range of adjustment. If you need to make further changes you’ll need a firmer or softer spring. However, the default spring should be fine for most situations. To increase the sag in a coil-sprung system simply turn anti-clockwise.

There is also one more factor to take into account. Something that is called bottoming out. This is when the suspension reaches the end of travel when you hit rough terrain. On the opposite end of the scale, is an effect called topping out. This is when the suspension reaches its full extension. Budget mountain bikes don’t have a system to control this and therefore the bike bobs up and down. On a budget mountain bike your only option therefore is to increase the spring rate if the fork is bottoming out too much. Note that some bottoming out isn’t a problem.

Higher end mountain bikes have a compression damping which can be increased if the fork is bottoming out too often.

Suspension fork sag adjustment

As I mentioned in the beginning this is a good adjustment to make when you first buy a mountain bike. Always consult with the manual when it comes to making adjustments like these or alternatively check with official advice online. Unfortunately, manufacturers don’t always make this as easy to find as you’d like.

See also:

• Assembling a flat pack bike
• Replacing hydraulic disk brake pads
• Fixing the most common mechanical problem with bikes in London

Big thank you to Mark’s Cycle Repairs for helping me put this repair together for the Bike Doctor App (Already in iPhone version, soon to be in Android version)

Mark offers excellent prices and repairs for all sorts of bikes and if you live in the direction of Kent (Orpington) specifically then you should check him out:

http://www.markscyclerepairs.com/

To replace hydraulic disk brake pads you will need:

• New brake pads – similar to the ones you are using before
• Pliers – to pull out the retaining pin
• Tyre lever or pad separator – to pry open tightly closed pistons
• Disk brake cleaner – if you feel the rotor needs cleaning

Background to the repair:

Hydraulic Disk Brake Pads are well known for needing little maintenance. The piston automatically moves in as the pads wear and therefore you don’t spend every other weekend tweaking them (damn you V-brakes!).

Pads need to be replaced once they reach 1mm or less or thickness. After that they’ll start to wear out the rotors.

This repair is useful for just doing an inspection of the pads and if they are worn then heading to the local bike shop to buy a replacement.

Disk brake Pad types

Two types of pad can be used for disk brake repair. Organic and sintered. Many pro-riders use one of each in the calliper to get both the benefits.

Organic pads will need some breaking in before any heavy riding. A couple of hard stops helps to get them working correctly. Sintered pads don’t need breaking in. They are hotter and somewhat heavier than organic pads but are ont appropriate in all disk brake systems. Whilst more effective, they do wear out the rotor more quickly than organic pads will.

Additional notes on the video:

Your disk brake design will vary slightly. Some pads for example are held in place using bolts instead of split pins. Also some disk brake pads are removed upwards instead of downwards. Be aware of this when following the instructions.

During the repair when the pads are out is a good opportunity to clean the calliper. Do so using an old toothbrush or a cotton swab.

Any questions feel free to ask below! Hope this video is of use and if it is please do hit the like button as it means more people get to see it!

See also:

• Bike Doctor App
• Mark’s Cycle Repairs
• Fixing the most common mechanical problem with bikes in London
• The Ultimate Guide to Bicycle Maintenance review

They are nearly 5 years old so it’s time for a replacement. If your jockey wheels are looking worn out by rust or their teeth have worn away then a replacement is easy. Most jockey wheels can be simply taken off, cleaned, greased and then put back on the bike.

1. If the old jockey wheels are looking worn out then get yourself a pair of new jockey wheels. Note that the upper and lower jockey wheels are normally slightly different in size. You can use your existing pair of jockey wheels to work out which new ones you need. As my drivetrain is a Shimano and it’s a hybrid bike, I needed Shimano mountain bike jockey wheels.
2. Grab some grease and an Allen Key.
3. Get the chain off the bike using a quick release link or a chain tool if your chain doesn’t have a quick link.
4. Choose which one of the two jockey wheels you will service first. It’s best to do them one at a time so as not to be confused as to which one goes where.
5. Undo the bolt using an Allen key and clean the jockey wheel.
6. Apply grease to the bolt, bushing sleeve and inside the pulley wheel.
7. Put the jockey wheel back together and re-attach it to your bike. Making sure to firmly tighten it.
8. Repeat with the other jockey wheel
9. Re-attach the chain making sure to thread it over the top jockey wheel (it will currently be at the bottom height wise), under the top jockey wheel and finally up and over the lower jockey wheel.
10. Re-attach the quick release link or push the chain pin back in using a chain tool.

For a video of how to do this I recommend Bicycle Tutor.

Also in this overhauling your bike series:

• Chain and V-brake maintenance

I must be one of thousands of London cyclists who’ve experienced this. How do I know it? Because I hear the grinding sound all the time. At traffic lights especially.

But why? Why is your beautiful bike causing you so much hassle at this moment of need and potentially putting you in a dangerous situation?

The answer probably lies in the cassette.

The cassette is a true thing of beauty. A complex marvel representing the progress of bicycles. But when it is worn out it’s a true pain the %*$£”!

When you apply pressure to the pedals the chain tries to grip the teeth. If the teeth are too worn then the chain will simply slide forward.

Before definitely pointing the finger of blame on the cassette it is worth noting that there are other potential culprits. One is the chain. Two is the rear derailleur indexing.

With some Poirot style investigating you should be able to find whodunit. The first thing to do is to check if the chain is worn.

If the chain seems worn then maybe it is a good time to replace it. It is also worth checking the teeth on the cassette. The one in the picture above is worn out where as the below is a new cassette. You can see a new cassette has more clearly defined teeth.

Replacing the cassette

If this is your culprit then replacement is fairly easy. For the bike shop route you’ll be looking at £25 for labour plus the cost of parts. For a Shimano cassette the cost can be as little as £23.99. But the prices go up from there.

You could also choose to do it yourself. The only bad news about this is that you do need some bike specific tools. Namely a chain whip and a lockring tool. This will set you back £10 – £20. You’ll also need a spanner or a wrench.

Doing it yourself will work out cheaper even with purchasing the tools.

I put together this below video while I was doing the cassette replacement on my bike. Note that it is common practise to replace the chain at the same time as installing a new cassette (unless the chain is only a few weeks old anyway).

Also in the overhauling your bike series:

• Replacing your chain and overhauling your v brakes

In part 1 of the series I’ll be covering the parts that most commonly need replacing. The chain and the brake pads. Next week I’ll talk about replacing jockey wheels.

You should subscribe to the newsletter if you want to make sure you don’t miss out on the next post about restoring an old bike.

Giving your bike a good clean

The first stage in fixing up an old bike is to give it a good scrub. For some good tips checkout my post on bike cleaning. Remember to thoroughly wash away any degreaser you use as it can damage the bike, if left on there for too long.

Overhauling an old bike

The basic premise of a bike overhaul is to take apart the different components, clean them, re-grease them and then re-install them. You also need to identify any components that need replacing.

The first video shows you how to replace your chain.

The second video is about overhauling v brakes.

Essentials for overhauling an old bike

• New chain (£10) – I have a 9 speed bike (9 rear sprockets on the cassette). Therefore, I need a 9 speed chain (9sp). I tend to opt for SRAM with a quick release link. This is because SRAM is a trusted brand and the quick release means I can easily take the chain on and off. I recently paid £22.99 for an SRAM PC951 then subsequently found it online for half the price. Chain Reaction Cycles is a good place to check for bike components.
• Chain tool (£11.99) – This is used to shorten the length of a chain. Or, to release a chain, if you don’t have a quick release link.
• New brake pads – Aim to buy something similar to what you already have. If you are cycling in the winter, then it generally isn’t worth you spending more money on a more expensive set of pads as they are likely to also wear out quickly. In the summer months you can spend a little more if you wish.
• Allen key – absolutely essential tool!
• Grease – On any unexposed components grease helps keep the water out and keep things moving.

Also in this series:

• Fixing the most common mechanical problem with bikes in London
• Breathing new life into an old bike

Buying a bike stand is one of those moments when you realise maybe you are getting a bit too into cycling. What will be next? I cannot be sure. Perhaps a whole garage dedicated to cycling. With bikes hanging from the walls and bicycle parts scattered all over the place. The problem is; I don’t have a garage. So my neighbours will be the first to complain when they have to battle locked up bikes to reach their front door.

Anyway, when you want to get more into playing with your bike and doing maintenance yourself eventually you get sick of a bike that seems to have a mind of its own. You go to adjust the brakes and the handlebars turn and the bike topples over. Angered you set it back up again. Within seconds it’s back on the ground.

To defeat the bike with a mind of its own you need a bike stand. Problem is it’s a little expensive and it takes up a lot of room. That’s where a portable bike stand comes in.

Portable bike stand numero uno

Nicole has already mentioned the Andy Stand. At £40 it’s pretty much half the price of most regular big bike stands. The good news: It keeps the bike really stable. The bad news: it only fits certain bike types. Not ideal.

Then came along a great recommendation from Craig in the comments and mentioned the…

Topeak FlashStand

Now were in business. The Topeak FlashStand looks like this:

Folded up it is:
7.5” x 3.1” x 1.8” (Folded)

Or a little bit bigger than a pint glass to alcoholic you and me.

Price wise it’s cheaper than the Andy Stand. The Topeak costs £29.99 at most places but on Wiggle they have it for just £24.29 (Normally: £26.99).

The portable bike stand means that you can spin your cranks without having to lift up the bike yourself. It also keeps it from toppling over while you are tinkering with different parts.

The downside is it doesn’t lift the bike that far up so you still have to lean down to reach different parts. If working on a bike for a long time then this becomes a problem. Also according to reviews the portable bike stand isn’t that stable. So if you are applying heavy pressure and doing more complicated maintenance jobs it probably won’t suffice.

Also recommended in the comments is the…

Halfords storage and maintenance bike stand

Again the stand suffers from some limitations. But at £9.99 you may well be able to overlook that. The Halfords bike stand is small, cheap although not quite as impressively foldable as the Topeak.

It is available for £9.99 from Halfords.com

Then there is also the:

Minoura bike stand

Hilary recommended it saying:

I’ve had this Minoura stand for a few years.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/minoura-ds30blt-workstand/

It’s cheap, folds flat so it takes up no room and is dead easy to use. I find it ideal for drive train maintenance or just supporting the bike.

At £19.79 the price is pretty good. According to reviewers the best way to use the Minoura portable bike stand is to shove it on a table which also saves you from leaning over. The only downside reported is that fitting it to some bikes can be a little fiddly.

The Minoura portable bike stand is available from Wiggle.

If you’ve got a little more cash lying around (look in-between the sofa cushions) then suitable for heavy maintenance jobs is the:

Raleigh folding bike stand

It costs £73.16 but it makes light work of all maintenance jobs without taking up too much room.

In the end if you are picking the right one for you, you should ask yourself: what kind of maintenance will I be doing? If you are still happy to leave the big jobs to the pro’s then the Topeak portable bike stand or the Minoura will do. If you want to get more into bike maintenance then the folding Raleigh is the right choice.

See also:

• Andystand review by Nicole
• 10 cheap and easy DIY bike projects anyone can do
• Breathing new life into an old bike

Ok, so they won’t do themselves but there are so many nifty gadgets to assist.  In Andreas’ post of yesterday "Breathing New Life Into An Old Bike", there was a picture of his bike on a workshop stand.  I’ve been toying with buying one of these for a while but I wasn’t quite sure if I’d get any use out of it and to get a good one, I think you would need to spend about £100.   A couple of weeks ago I saw something called an Andystand on the internet.  I asked Andy to send me one to test out and he duly obliged.  Andy has just started his business manufacturing the stand after one of those eureka moments in his garage with his mountain bike.  I thought it might solve my problem of how to fix my bikes without shelling out for that work stand that I may never use.

At that stage I wasn’t sure if I could do any routine maintenance, or was going to do any on a routine basis, so I didn’t want to buy an expensive stand. The Andystand seems to be the perfect compromise. Each stand is only about £40, with a discount for two or more and they come in different colours.

It’s a tubular frame, the top tube of which slots very neatly into the hole in the bottom bracket of most modern bikes. There must be a hole in the bottom bracket of about 20 ml diameter otherwise it won’t fit.  Disappointingly, my upright bike doesn’t fit because it doesn’t have enough clearance.  The point of the stand is to hold the bike steady, either wheel touching the ground, while repairs and general maintenance, washing etc. can be carried out, and because it’s incredibly light and portable you can use it to hold the bike when travelling.   I was out on the South Downs on Sunday morning and it was blowing a gale.  On the top photos you can see that I used my Andystand to hold the bike while I put my shoes on and got ready (can’t drive in cleats!) otherwise it would have fallen over in the wind!  When I got back home I put it on the stand to give it a clean up and once over, and I also use it just to store my bike on at home.  It takes up much less room than a conventional work stand.

A really great little gadget for when a work stand is too expensive, or too big for the bike shed.

• Breathing new life into an old bike
• Cleaning your bike
• Repairing your bike using your iPhone
• How much should you pay for a repair in a London bike shop?

Once you’ve completed the tweaks and upgrades you’ll get a far better ride without any annoying squeaking and over-the-top pedalling effort.

I’m starting the series because when I asked you for feedback your message was clear: More bike maintenance posts!

It also suits me because I’ve been neglecting my bike.

This is what I will be covering over the next few weeks

• Changing a rusty chain and overhauling brakes
• Fixing the most common mechanical problem with bikes in London
• 3 quick tune ups that will improve your ride
• Detecting and stopping squeaking
• Changing your bicycle tyres
• Replacing a cassette
• Replacing brake pads
• Shortening bicycle handlebars
• Any other tweaks I think will be useful!

If you are interested in bike maintenance then you might be interested in my bike maintenance iPhone & Android application: Bike Doctor. It has 23 repairs that show you how to look after your bike.

If you’ve got any more suggestions as to other things you’d like me to cover then please do leave a comment below and I’ll see what I can do.

• How to clean your bike
• Replacing handlebar grips
• Repair your bike using your iPhone
• The Ultimate Guide to bike maintenance review
• Inside Westminster’s bicycle maintenance course

The repair is taken from the Bike Doctor App for the iPhone and Android that I co-created.

What you’ll need to replace handlebar grips:

Essentials:

• Allen key – should already have this!
• New grips – in the video I’m testing out the Ergon Grips which give a decent upgrade to your comfort and put less strain on your wrists.

Possibly:

• Hairspray which is used as glue for old handlebar grips
• WD-40 – if the handlebar grips can’t be loosened by hand
• Screwdriver – again only needed if the handlebar grips are struggling to come off

Why you may want to replace handlebar grips:

• If you fancy giving your bike a bit of a trendier look
• If your old grips are starting to crumble in your hands
• If you buy new handlebar grips that provide better comfort

Related bike repair instructions:

Once you’ve tackled replacing handlebar grips you may want to look at these:

• Repair your bike using your iPhone
• How to clean your bike
• Which part of your bike should you lubricate?